Marie Swell Brings Dangerous Surf to Southern California

Marie Swell Breaks Under a Red Flag_Revolt In Style

Marie Swell Brings Dangerous Surf to Southern California

Marie never came ashore in Southern California.

 

It did not have to.

 

A powerful southeast-to-south swell generated by the tropical system continues to affect the coast, producing hazardous surf, strong currents and coastal flooding at exposed beaches.

 

The National Weather Service has maintained High Surf and Coastal Flood advisories for Los Angeles and Ventura counties through 11 p.m. Tuesday, September 8. Beach Hazards Statements are also in effect along portions of the Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo county coast.

 

The greatest danger is not simply the size of the waves. Strong and potentially deadly rip currents are continuing along south-facing beaches, where the swell is arriving with the most energy.

 

South swell erodes and floods the beach_revolt In Style

South-Facing Beaches Take the Biggest Hit

 

The swell has been most pronounced along exposed sections of the Ventura and Los Angeles county coast.

 

Earlier in the event, the National Weather Service forecast surf of 5 to 8 feet, with local sets reaching as high as 12 feet. Some of the largest surf was expected around Zuma Beach, Malibu and Long Beach.

 

Even beaches partially protected from the swell can experience sudden increases in wave energy, rapidly changing currents and unexpected surges.

 

The large south swell has also generated stronger currents inside vulnerable harbors. Breaking waves may affect south-facing harbor entrances, particularly in Ventura and Los Angeles counties.

 

Surfers, boaters, paddlers and anyone entering the water should check local conditions rather than relying on what a familiar break normally looks like.

Rip Current Channel from Above_Revolt In Style

Coastal Flooding Adds Another Hazard

 

The swell is arriving alongside elevated evening tides, increasing the possibility of coastal flooding.

 

Flooded sandy areas, beach parking lots, bike paths and low-lying roads are possible around high tide. Beach erosion may also continue at exposed locations.

 

Areas identified by forecasters as being particularly vulnerable include the Alamitos Peninsula in Long Beach, Catalina Island and the coast from Oxnard through Point Mugu and Malibu.

 

Visitors should obey temporary closures and avoid parking or setting up equipment in low-lying sections of the beach.

 

Experienced Surfers Are Not Immune

 

Large hurricane-generated swells can be exciting, but wave height is only part of the equation.

 

Strong rip currents, shifting peaks, powerful shorebreak and surges around rocks, piers and jetties can make conditions more dangerous than they appear from shore. Entry and exit points that usually feel routine may behave very differently during a strong south swell.

 

The National Weather Service recommends checking the local beach forecast before entering the water and speaking directly with an on-duty lifeguard. Swimming and recreational water activity should be limited to guarded beaches.

 

Good weather does not necessarily mean safe ocean conditions. Rip currents can remain dangerous even under sunny skies and after the largest waves begin to subside.

 

Marie Stayed Offshore, but Its Energy Reached the Coast

 

Marie remained hundreds of miles southwest of Southern California as it moved northwest over the Pacific. Its center never needed to approach the coastline for the storm’s long-period swell and tropical moisture to reach the region.

 

The main rain event has passed, but lingering moisture, isolated showers and hazardous beach conditions may continue through Tuesday. Warmer temperatures are also expected to build across Southern California through midweek.

 

The swell should gradually ease, but surfers and beachgoers should continue following official updates until the coastal advisories expire.

 

Check the latest National Weather Service Los Angeles/Oxnard forecast discussion before heading to the coast.

 

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